Our drive from Jaipur to Udaipur was about 7 hours, broken up by a chai stop and a rooftop dinner in Bhilwara that I later learned was the highlight meal of the trip in our guide, Saurabh’s, opinion. The service was impeccable and the dishes were delicious but what stood out was the variety of breads that kept appearing!!

I haven’t talked about the breads here yet. It seems there are endless creative ways to mix flours and liquids and assorted other simple ingredients to form yummy vehicles for curry consumption! Most of them are unleavened and vary only in the type of flour used and cooking method. I ended up googling to find some kind of list and to be able to remember some of the names and there are actually illustrated guides!

These are just a few of the approximately 30 types of breads commonly found in India. Of these, I think I’ve tried 7 but I’ve probably had at least the same number again that don’t appear in this picture!

Our arrival at Castle Bidaipur in the countryside near a village of the same name was marked by a presentation of a marigold garland (marigolds represent the sun and symbolize brightness and positive energy) and the application of a bindi on my forehead (the bindi is said to retain energy and strengthen concentration and also represents the third eye).

The castle was a lovely retreat away from the noise of the cities and we slept like rocks in the spacious historic rooms. Evenings were spent around a fire in the courtyard with hot masala chai and crispy papadam chips before dinner.

On the day after our arrival we set out in the back of a jeep (always safety first here…😬) for a tour of the area with some beautiful views and a little information on the agriculture. Saw some wheat, chickpeas, garlic, onions, beans and lots of mustard but the most fascinating were the opium poppies – highly regulated, revered and holy (we couldn’t step into the field) and in full bloom!

Still fighting the smog, our views from a local lookout were less spectacular than they could potentially be but we saw 2 vultures and got an idea of the fields below.

Lunch was spent at a local resort (Pangarh Lake Retreat) with a cooking demonstration. We also sampled their versions of the common local drinks while we waited for the mutton (goat) curry to simmer – lime soda (sweet or salty), lassi (sweet or salty) and more of the addictive masala chai! Saurabh shared his knowledge of local history, the history of chai and the caste system and some hilarious stories about his experiences in the UK in university. All in all, a relaxing morning and early afternoon by the lake!

The following day started with another 3 hour trip from Bijaipur to Udaipur. Saurabh pointed out Chittorgarh (a 7th century Fort visible from the highway en route) and then gave us a brief history lesson and a fascinating overview of the 9 reincarnations of the Hindu god of preservation, Vishnu.

We checked in to our hotel in Udaipur and headed directly to lunch in Old Udaipur at the Rainbow Cafe – a rooftop restaurant overlooking lake Pichola and a favourite of Saurabh’s. After lunch we went on a bit of a walking tour and stopped at a tailor to have a some stitching done – I had a skirt and blouse made but unfortunately don’t have a good photo to include yet. That maxed out my tolerance for shopping so it was back to the Rainbow cafe for chai until our sunset boat ride.

The views from the boat were impressive – the lakeside architecture, city palace, Taj Lake Palace and the surrounding hills. The smog does lend a bit of mystique to the views….

Dinner was on another rooftop restaurant (actually the hotel where parts of the movie, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, was filmed) with spectacular sunset and night time views.

On the way back to the hotel we got to experience an Indian traffic jam – mostly motorbikes and motorized rickshaws with only a smattering of cars.

The next morning we had the opportunity to tour a Jain temple (Jain is another religion that originated in India) and the city palace – a structure built over 400 years started in 1559. It currently houses a museum, two five star hotels and the King of Rajasthan. Beautiful architecture and a complicated history!

We had an unbelievably delicious street lunch of chai, samosa with chutneys and poha!

After lunch we got to experience a palm reading by a local teacher and astrologer. Jyotish means astrology and those who practice were part of a historical caste under the broader Brahmin caste and are currently considered to belong to the OBC (other backward caste). I’m still trying to comprehend the historical and modern manifestations of the caste system and feel woefully inadequate at trying to explain here! These astrologers go through extensive training. I’m glad I did it and was grateful for some of the insight I was given!

Our final day in Udaipur started with a trip to a local market led by the instructor of our cooking class.

After this meal, things took a turn for the worse. My stomach had been upset for the last 24 hours off and on, but it became clear to me that I had finally succumbed to ‘Delhi Belly’. Quick stop for a miniature painting demonstration and a purchase of 3 small paintings on silk (easily packable) and then it was back to the hotel for me. I had about 5 hours to medicate and recover before we boarded our 16 hour overnight train to Mumbai. It wasn’t looking good 🤢.

2 doses of Imodium and 1 high dose of Gravol later, we headed out in rickshaws and pouring rain to make our way to the train. To compound my misery, the bottom of my skirt got wet from water splashing up into the rickshaw from the road, the thought of which turned my already angry stomach. The walk to the train and the process of setting up my upper bunk (home for the next 16 hours) almost finished me, but I managed and the Gravol kicked in until 4:30am. I took another 50mg and was mostly asleep off and on until an hour before we arrived in Mumbai. I felt surprisingly good (other than the pain in my hips and shoulders from sleeping on upholstered plywood) and took in the views of Mumbai from the train window.

Mumbai was shocking, polluted, beautiful and vibrant – more to come!